Today we were finally getting a swell here in the redneck riviera. Seems like each year, I'm still donning my 3/2 with botties the first week of december and well, it has kind'a become a tradition. Heavy rains helped calm the sea down some and we had a nice evening session with some chest to head-high sets rolling in. I've also been taking some shots of a local shaper at work in preparation for a possible book on the regions surf culture including some of the older shops, surfers, shapers, and just the whole motley crew! Stay tuned for more stuff on this. enjoy!