Today we were finally getting a swell here in the redneck riviera. Seems like each year, I'm still donning my 3/2 with botties the first week of december and well, it has kind'a become a tradition. Heavy rains helped calm the sea down some and we had a nice evening session with some chest to head-high sets rolling in. I've also been taking some shots of a local shaper at work in preparation for a possible book on the regions surf culture including some of the older shops, surfers, shapers, and just the whole motley crew! Stay tuned for more stuff on this. enjoy!
Today we were finally getting a swell here in the redneck riviera. Seems like each year, I'm still donning my 3/2 with botties the first week of december and well, it has kind'a become a tradition. Heavy rains helped calm the sea down some and we had a nice evening session with some chest to head-high sets rolling in. I've also been taking some shots of a local shaper at work in preparation for a possible book on the regions surf culture including some of the older shops, surfers, shapers, and just the whole motley crew! Stay tuned for more stuff on this. enjoy!
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